GE Dishwasher Dead Display Diagnosis (GE Dishwasher Has No Lights)

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Информация о GE Dishwasher Dead Display Diagnosis (GE Dishwasher Has No Lights)

Название	:	GE Dishwasher Dead Display Diagnosis (GE Dishwasher Has No Lights)
Продолжительность	:	3.33
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Had this issue after power lines caught on fire had to do a reset on the kitchen outlet to return power to dishwasher
Comment from : John Vaughn

Is there a way to reset it?
Comment from : Temmy Cane

I just tested pin 2 and 5 and I have 0ish volts But pin 1 and 5 I have 14 What does that mean?
Comment from : Radomire B

For everyone reading: make sure you are testing for DC 14V off the control board
Comment from : JungleLarry

What if I get 30 volts between pins 2 and 5??
Comment from : Jeff Freeman

What is the part number on the borad you used
Comment from : John Acquaviva

we have a Gdf520pgj2ww not it won't power on at all to start with the start button was blinking all by itself , no one touched it has been installed less than 2 years was a clearance model all the wiring and the outside of console show getting power
Comment from : pam arrington

Mine only has 4 pins top and bottom
Comment from : Cruz

HELP! What if i have 10 volts with pin 2 and 5? i even tried two multimeters and got the samebrthank you
Comment from : Dan Meyer

14 volts is 14 V DC
Comment from : toddmanateefl

I have no lights on my GE Dishwasher I checked pin 2 and 5 and had no voltage I replaced main board, but still have only 2 volts between pin 2 and 5 What is my next step to check?
Comment from : Gary Gummerman

Speak louder!
Comment from : choirmaestroJack

6v between pin 2 and 5 Off to the parts house tomorrow to get a board
Comment from : Matt S

I have all the same problems on my 5 year old GDT695SSJ5SS This week I’ve replaced both the main control board & UII’m still getting the rapidly flashing LED on the control board & UI panel is still dead Any suggestions?
Comment from : THOMPNATION

Hi, amateur here! I bought a multimeter by Klein Tools and did exactly as you said However I’m reading zero Can I ask what settings you have the multimeter on? I think I’ve got that wrong! brbrThank you!
Comment from : Mr Zesty

Thank you !!! This helped 😊
Comment from : Christina Ladikos

Thanks! Worked for me
Comment from : Jack Quigley

Thanks for this video Very easy to understand However, when I test pins 2 and 5 I am getting between 8 and 9 volts I just wanted to confrim if that means the board needs replacing Thanks in advance!
Comment from : Charlie Spataro

i have this dishwasher its stuck on auto sensing for over a year now lol
Comment from : Esem-G

Great video, was very helpful This dude is awesome
Comment from : afshar yusuf

Thanks for the tips for diagnosing this problem… just finished fixing mine👍
Comment from : Jim Costa

I have a similar looking GE (5 years old, model gdt695sfl5ds) with a different control board (couldn't see 5 pins to test) Wouldn't turn on or respond to any button press Board has blinking green LED Z301 R306 (no idea what that means) I unplugged the black wire harness that goes up to door that was plugged into underside of control board while unit was plugged in and it woke up the display when I reconnected Prior to it going dead the unit would randomly wake up every couple hours so I figured based on Google searches the UI board was going? We'll see what happens, maybe just a loose wire?
Comment from : Tom T

Just a heads up: My control board doesn't look like the one in the video If your control board is square it's a pn WD21X25730
Comment from : Cole Dedhand

Know the difference between these 2 parts? PDT785SYN7FS and PDT785SYNFS Second one has not 7
Comment from : Harold Perez

Great Video: Clear and Concise
Comment from : Lynn McNiel

I have 10 volts dc at the 2 and 5 pins Is that enough to run UI BOARD?
Comment from : My Name

You still around?
Comment from : Monty

I ordered a new board, still don't get 14V Not sure what to do now
Comment from : Joel Perkins

Hi! Question so I have 120 at the main I replaced the main board and it's only getting 6-8v still
Comment from : Richard Martinez

I wasn’t getting a reading from the board but was from the main power I replaced the board and it still wasn’t reading anything consistently Anybody have any insight into that? I bought a new UI but not sure if that’s going to fix it either
Comment from : Brett Dubois

These GE dishwashers are such trash We've been through multiple boards and they all fail
Comment from : streamtomtom

My original symptom: dishwasher would trip the upstairs breaker switch on the panel Resetting the switch remedied the fault temporarily, but after resetting the breaker switch a couple of times over the next week to do a load of dishes, the dishwasher lost all power The breaker switch “trick” no longer remedies the fault Could the breaker switch be faulty? On the bottom of the dishwasher, I removed the black aluminum panel and white insulation to get to the aluminum box covering the two wire nuts on the right side Had some difficulty trying to put the leads in the wire nuts, but did the best that I could to make contact First, I had the multimeter on 20 Volts and received a 01 nominal reading Second, I switched to 200 Volts and received a 00 Volts reading I removed both leads to reposition them, to see if I could make better contact, and received same 00 Volts reading I also tried to reset the dishwasher by holding down the respective buttons at the same time, to no avail Any suggestions?
Comment from : Mikey Mike

Awesome simple video
Comment from : Joe Smith

Good video, I checked the 2 & 5 pins for 14v and I get 0 nine times out of ten, but do get 14 eventually; could this still be a faulty board even though I do get a reading once a blue moon? Thanks
Comment from : Joe Warren

Now what? That didn’t help fix the issue that it’s not coming on…😢
Comment from : CallieMae

What a great video I have the same dishwasher and followed your instructions to the tee Can't tell you how grateful I am You are awesome
Comment from : Longino Bustillos

My display wont turn on either But when the washer has power from mains it sounds like the drain pump is on Any ideas?
Comment from : andrew odom

Thank you Very helpful video, fixed my issue
Comment from : Alexandre Schwaida

Super useful video You saved me loads of money! Thanks!
Comment from : David Magradze

I'm a geek and love technology and coding and networking and all that jazzbut electricity is a weak spot and it the danger of it low-key scares mebrBut this video was so ridiculously easy to follow and understand that I was able to do everything with confidencebrThat alone warrants leaving a comment Not only that, but pointing out what makes this such an outstanding video:brYou're clear, concise, to the point, you don't have an obnoxious opener with blaring music, you have good diction, you don't stutter or go "ummmmm, uhhhhhh, annnnnnnd", you cover safety, you teach tips/tricks (like the wire trick in your user interface replacement video), and you keep everything streamlined without adding video fillerbr35 minutes is all it took for you to do a great troubleshooting videobrAt this point, upvoting this video isn't even a judgment call It's obligatorybr10/10 video brbr(PS - It was my display Power in and control board were getting correct voltage I'm off to finish watching your video about replacing the user interface)
Comment from : The Pariah

Ive replaced both boards I now have 14 v at contol board I still get nothing No live whatsoever on user interface Any Ideas?
Comment from : Nicholas Posa

GOOD JOB VERY HELPFUL
Comment from : monty parker

Thank you for this excellent diagnostic! I followed this and tried the reset steps folks added to the comments and turns out it was the UI I purchased a replacement OEM board and had to set the jumpers (like you show in your UI removal video) The included table was wrong! I have a GDT695 and the table shows "personality #11" which didn't work So I tried the others until I found one that did Turns out the personality should be #10, NOT #11 for models GDT695, ugh! Got it to work though and wouldn't have been able to without this clear and concise video, thank you!!
Comment from : Sean Danby

14 v AC or DC?
Comment from : Paul K

I’m showing 4 volts Replaced the main board already I’ve got 120 at the power supply but only showing 4 volts at the at those pins
Comment from : john mcclure

Is there supposed to be a light flashing on the UI Board?
Comment from : Duchess23

Used this video to figure out that they hooked mine up to a switch in the wall that I thought didn't have a purpose Felt like a idiot
Comment from : jarred

So mine only has 2 rows of 4 pins I have tried all of them in different combinations but haven't gotten any power Anything I'm missing??brbrAlso there is a blinking green light on the motherboard which makes me think there is powerbrbrAny help??
Comment from : ScareCrow

I just went through this procedure and it magically started working after I turned power back on There is a capacitor or battery in there I think when that discharges and you remove the UI harness it resets? Idk I think it’s junk too Called GE and they said “we’ve never heard of this problem” 🤡
Comment from : Conner M

When you check for 14volt on the two pins is the power on? I did it both ways and only read 1 Also, why is there a black jumping to the white wire? Mine is black to black, white to white and green to green
Comment from : CoinGuy

Followed this Replaced my control board It comes new with jumpers that need to be set to match your model number Made those changes and put it together Handwashing is over! Thanks for the videobrbrI should add that with my model there were 2 torx screws on each side of the door that needed to be removed to lift the door panel off
Comment from : DV

Great video This problem has been a pain for years now Always wanted to know how to isolate between the main board or user interface Thank you so much!!
Comment from : Wynn Watkins

Thank you Looks like a main board :-(
Comment from : David Myers

What if only the LCD doesn't illuminate? All the other indicator lights and buttons work correctly Are there different pins to test to know if it's UI or Control board?
Comment from : Ivan Reyna

Another happy customer We checked and found 14 V at the bottom And replaced the upper board and it works now The one thing we found out that doesn’t appear to be covered here is that the new boards have jumpers that need to be set to match your model number brbrThank you for the video it was extremely helpful
Comment from : Neil Kurzman

I just replace my board and I have 30v at pins 2-5 This is a brand new board LED is not lighted up on the board Should I stop and get another new board HELP
Comment from : Brett Hamlin

My board is showing 9 volts So what is the minimum voltage before the control board should be replaced?
Comment from : Jim Barnard

How about using a 12vdc test light, example: 2 lead fuse tester for automotive applications…? Provided the tester has small enough pointy tips as not to accidentally touch opposing pins to #2 & #5 ( 5 being ground)
Comment from : HVACENGINEER Moran

excellent video
Comment from : Nic Watson

I’m getting 304 v across those pins What does that mean?
Comment from : The Steve Z Chronicles

This did the trick for me Bad control board going on and off at random times during the day Replaced the board and all is well Thanks
Comment from : Tony V

Unplug the wire harness and plug back in did the trick for me Worth a quick try before getting out the multimeter
Comment from : Steven Seiler

Thanks very much for your great video!
Comment from : Glenn Marston

MY start sensor does not work All the other sensors work on my PDw9980LOOSS
Comment from : Cindy Savely

Try this first people youtube/fo_3LFYZ4fw reset LED board using buttons
Comment from : Larry Mar

Excellent instructions thank you
Comment from : Mark Allard

Thank you, very helpful I measure 10 volts between 2 and 5 My voltmeter is set at 200-volt range with no lower range available Is 10 volts ok?
Comment from : Peter Liljegren

I only have 9 volts not 14volts
Comment from : Anthony Salazar

I replaced both control board and nothing
Comment from : ecoTOP

I am not getting voltage when checking pins 2 & 5 on my bottom control board - when you say 'main board' which board is that? I've already replaced the control board in the bottom - or what they refer to as the "dishwasher configured machine control" and I see a light on the board when I'm powered up, but still not getting lights on my UI Is there a 3rd board besides the control board in the bottom & the UI board at the top? I'm working on a Model GDT655SSJ2SS and have been combing the online assembly manual and don't see anything named that
Comment from : Abigail Solomon

Question, I have the same model, except for the last digits mj5es I've replaced the board down below as the light was blinking on it Still not working Thinking it's the upper control panel now
Comment from : Donna myrick

I unplugged the board under the washer and removed it to get serial no’s plugged it back in , now it works again but for how long ?
Comment from : Michael Tyre

I suggest replacing the UI and Main control board as per GE technical support every time I call them, Sometimes the UI needs to be reprogrammed to the new main board but only GE techs carry this tool, So for these needs both parts
Comment from : Carlos Bustamante

I only have 8 volts Is that enough?
Comment from : Dennis Epping

Thank you so much! I have been running into this issue and could not find a pinout to check the DC voltage from the machine control Thanks again for showing us the pins to check
Comment from : doolie