Название | : | Machine Shop Maintenance: Truing up a 3-Jaw Chuck |
Продолжительность | : | 14.35 |
Дата публикации | : | |
Просмотров | : | 303 rb |
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I would have tore down the chuck to inspect and clean the wormgear and individual jaw mating surfaces One jaw looked like it had more material removed and I suspect it might have a burr or some deflect between the contacting surfaces That would cause the run out after resurfacing Comment from : @pnwviking757 |
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That worked well How I have done it before is to use 3-5" dia Plate 1/4" thick with a 1 1/2" hole in it Dril 3 holes in it for the bolts to come thru If your Chuck has no bolts I have figured out a solution also with key stock Comment from : @nevinzimmerly4888 |
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Have you heard of anyone having problems on runout on a six jaw chuck ? thank you for all your vids Skip Victoria Texas Comment from : @skipgoryews1356 |
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volume is too low Comment from : @gunnyoorah1846 |
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Very nice presentation Keith! Your narration and image quality is first class I have an old Cincinnati 125 x 42 lathe that is new to me I can adjust the 3 jaw Buck Chuck on it to about 2 thou runout with its 4 adjusting screws What do you think is acceptable runout? Comment from : @cramersclassics |
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I spent 34 years on a metal lathe and milling machine I learn something from EVERY one of your videos Thank you, Charles Comment from : @charlescrow6001 |
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Keith; I acquired a 10x42 Atlas lathe that came with a 4 jaw and a 3 jaw chuck The three jaw came with two sets of jaws Someone told me that you need to watch the jaws to see if they are set up for internal or external grabbing of stock Is this true? This is my first lathe Comment from : @andrewkoetz3933 |
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Thanks Keith we have a tool post grinder i did not realize you could add a extension arbor to reach into the chuck Comment from : @johnjennings8085 |
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This method makes more sense This is the way the chuck will be under load Comment from : @johnjennings8085 |
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no its not both bolts are a must Comment from : @johnsears4197 |
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Hey Keith is that a precision ground rod? The surface looks bad enough to make me wonder if the runout might be coming from the rod being out of round Comment from : @physicsguybrian |
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Just watched this, such a great method Who knew the song plays when you grind a chuck? Comment from : @thomsworkshop946 |
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Jezz Keith I watched your video because I have 15 thou run-out on my lathe that I would like to get under a thou But you are happy with 4? That's a little hard to swallow! But maybe it's not as bad as you think brbrHow do you know your measuring bar is true? It looks like raw unfinished material which is seldom true Don't you have a good ground mandrel in your tooling inventory? brbrHow do you know if the missing outer screws are torquing the jaws a bit? Why not put sleeves on the longer bolts so they tighten the outer location AND provide a clamping surface for your tensioning collar? Comment from : @DocSusquatch |
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This is the correct way to true up the jaws Thanks for the demo You can probably improve that 004 runout by striking the high jaw with a soft mallet Any improvement is a help so it doesn't hurt to try Comment from : @ellieprice3396 |
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When you tighten the Chuck do you just use one of the three adjustment screws? I had a runout problem on a small three jaw but changing my practice to always tighten all three adjustment screws the runout is down to just under 1/1000 Big result I must be a bit ocd as I always tighten in order Comment from : @steveallen8987 |
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Your method of creating tension is absolutely correct Many people are doing it the wrong way Note the following: A person can have the best setup, best grinder and correct way of tensioning the jaws, but if you have a spindle which is out of line with the bed, it's not going to help much It will be best to first check if the spindle is parallel to the bed My Opinion! Comment from : @pieterbotes8938 |
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Chucks are cheap, go buy a new one!!!!!! Comment from : @adammedica6394 |
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wow thanks for making me skip constantly through this video, this could have been just 4 minutes long but for some reason americans absolutely adore the sound of their own voices Comment from : @DoctorTooploop |
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I work at Cutter Masters and we have a DC motor grinder the size of a tool post :) check it out CUTTER MASTERS Comment from : @patlemay8006 |
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I imagine when you are grinding, the actual diameter which ends up being ground matches the diameter of the opening of the jaws during the operation It appears that the jaw gripping surface has a radius smaller than the operation set up Therfore the grinder won't contact the bottom of the jaw The run out will greatly improve for larger diameter work pieces but maybe not for smaller diameter stock???? Comment from : @dwightcarlson7136 |
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What happened to the audio ?? Comment from : @rogerdeane3608 |
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Its important to get pressure from the inside (like when clamping on a piece of metal) when grinding the jaws on the inside and not using a ring over the outside of the jaws which will cause pressure towards the inside instead of pressure towards the outside Comment from : @pieterbotes8938 |
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Man I expected a better result actually, I thought you'd get it down to 2 but hay the thing is Old Hit it again lol still like ya tool grinder but Comment from : @hiteck007 |
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as long as the ring is not out of round Comment from : @georgeescaped6035 |
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I suspect there is also wear in the centerline axis between the body and the Jaw mount I would use an all-thread stud, washer, nut, washer, your ring, washer and another nut This will secure the Jaw set just as if a piece were chucked up Comment from : @jackcollins6070 |
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I need to true the jaws on a small bench lathe with one piece jaws Any suggestions? Comment from : @shilohjim |
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Thank you Keith! Now that you have the center jaws "tuned" would you now go in and with drill rod chucked up - grind the other jaws? Comment from : @mtyquinn6 |
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I'm sorry but I had to look twice to see it was Rucker written on that motor!br Keep up the good work! Comment from : @sparkiekosten5902 |
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You can also have a little runout coming from the bolts; each round part of the bolt that is tighten the ring Comment from : @h0useisafeeling |
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Check the spindle nose! Because a lot of run out out is dirt or swarf on it (or rust) if that is all good go to the dressing stage well assured it is repeatable :o) Comment from : @teamidris |
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I read one time that you can just set your speed to the highest and the centrifugal force will throw out the jaws so i tried it 0005 runout worked great for me might be worth a try for you just run it and zap a thou or 2 off and see like you i didn't think it'd work too well either , but it did Comment from : @freezerfreezer9097 |
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i tried this many years ago didnt work out tension on the jaws is not the same as in tension i used a ring as well Comment from : @edmoore3910 |
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That would be true only for the diameter that you used Once you change the jaw position (open or close), you would have to factor in the play caused by the out of round that the scroll has Comment from : @blanchae |
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If that is bar stock, you're picking up the roundness of the bar stock Use precision bar OD ground stock to check the newly ground jawsIt will be better than that Comment from : @55418und |
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Why not make a split bush? Comment from : @JohnSmith-tw3rw |
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Buck chucks are worth every penny Comment from : @bobjimenez4464 |
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enjoyed watching ,& learning Comment from : @dougguynn2622 |
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I am just starting to learn about lathes and was looking for "how to true up your work piece in a lathe" I found all kinds of helpful videos that really didn't address that question, but answered other questions I didn't have I didnt realize for example that you can have a 3 jaw chuck that has a 4 jaw adjustment to true it up Now I found this video I cannot tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to spend teaching this method I am sure a lot of others here really appreciate it too Comment from : @marks6292 |
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Why does everybody on YouTube think they got to talk for a f*b***/b hour to do a 2-minute video shut the f*b***/b get to the point and get her done Comment from : @dgp61964 |
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Somebody please chime in here for me My lathe runs up to 3000 rpm Wouldn't it do the same thing to spin it up wide open and just let the centrifugal force push and hold the jaws out while grinding Any one tried this? I need to improve mine Comment from : @kenbarnes8958 |
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Would you be able to mark your piece and a jaw with a sharpie in order to reinstall the piece and match the original alignment? Comment from : @Fabes002 |
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Protecting the ways against grinding dust is a fine practice How about protecting your lungs? Comment from : @jeffryblackmon4846 |
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Another suggestion for the grinding Use your hand wheel to feed the grinding wheel back and forth fairly quickly Literally feed it , feed it out This works like honing a hole , the faster the feed the more rapidly the cutting action and more parallel the hole or jaws The rapid feed breaks down the grits to expose new sharper grits and keeps the wheel from cloging up Another suggestion is to dress the wheel on the same side as contact with the job Another mistake most people make is using too fine of grinding wheel and also too wide a wheel Narrow wheel has less pressure and more accurate One last thing , cleaning out the inside of the chuck before doing this job may help Cheers Comment from : @kellyallen903 |
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After reading through the comments I see that some people expect a 3 jaw chuck to run perfect 2-4 thousands is about as close as one can expect to get If you want accuracy take the 3 jaw chuck off and put on a 4 jaw Comment from : @pine28387 |
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To start with how do you know if the problem is the chuck or the rod? Comment from : @samp1394 |
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Please don't put any music (noise) on your video I like hearing you explain things, not covering it up with music Thanks Comment from : @chopperguy4473 |
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About the run-out and repeatability If you marked the jaw and the piece it would allow you to put the piece back in the chuck in the same orientation Wouldn't the original un-turned run-out be about the same so the turned part should have minimal run-out? Not perfect but better than slapping the piece back in willie-nillie Comment from : @robertharker |
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Hello Keith, your good, and that was clever, I really enjoyed the video, and I am going to try that idea out on my really old lathe, Now I think that you American cousins are great, but why do you say a thousand words when 100 would do Only a joke matebrmany thanks and regards ColinUK Comment from : @colinwarner7762 |
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The TENSION should be in the center ahh thats not my cup of tea Comment from : @skjoldhjvrkstedsforening4930 |
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NEW BEARING and NEW CHUCK the rest i simply IDIOTIC Keith Mister Block Would say Thats YANKEE CHUCK Comment from : @skjoldhjvrkstedsforening4930 |
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I really like this method with a large ring rather than putting a plug in the chuck and tightening it leaving a bit at the end you can never get to Comment from : @ALSomthin |
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Someone may have already asked this, but wouldn't the grinding wheel being worn down, as it is fed into the chuck, have a slight effect on the accuracy of the grind? It seems to me that it might have more accuracy if you advanced the cross slide feeding in AND out of the chuck Or maybe that would just lead to a slight crown in the jaws Comment from : @F5Tornado44 |
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Very nice great idea 😊 Comment from : @prenticeemler7709 |
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Two questionsbrbr1 Are you sure the 4 thousandth run-out, after grinding, isn't down to the piece of stock not being straight?brbr2 Why didn't you turn the jaws round, and the grind the other surfaces as well? Comment from : @BedsitBob |
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I am getting ready to do the same job on my 16" South Bend Thanks for sharingbrbrSubscriber: Randy Wilson Comment from : @MR65 |
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004" TRO isn't bad for a worn machine If you want to get closer, you will probably have to switch the 3 jaw for a 4 jaw Comment from : @curly27784 |
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Thanks for the video very nice Comment from : @Rocky1234732 |
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if the run out is at one jaw i ran a lathe in production shop, one jaw was 007 out while the others were really close, so i marked that jaw and used a 006 shim under the one jaw that was out made a world of difference Comment from : @brianfoley4519 |
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brutal job you could only make it as good as some cheap bolts you would have done better clamping outwardly on the ring Comment from : @tedmessner6980 |
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took mine from near 02 out to 0015 by using receipt paper between the backing plate and the Chuck put a pipe in the Chuck for leverage and only one screw needs to be loosened to get paper in a position Comment from : @joeycaddell9103 |
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hi Keith did you know alot of your older youtube's auto is on left side only? Comment from : @fourwheeldrivenut |
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how to get zero? Comment from : @TheFixxxer11 |
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Keith a little tipbrIf you are dressing the Grinding wheel on the "backside" and grinding on the "frontside" you can run into problems when your tool post grinder is not perfectly parallel to your bedways This means if you are off just a few thou you are doubeling the error and your grinding wheel will be conical, if you are dressing on the same side wich you will be machining later you dont have that problem cheers Mäcky Comment from : @Maecky |
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So if the ring is not perfectly round and the bolts are slightly different , wont that affect your new center line of the lathe after grinding the jaws? Comment from : @TheDefeatest |
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Beings you didn't grind across the full radius of each jaw, how can the chuck be true for different OD's of stock? Comment from : @charlieroper3987 |
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Another great video Keith 126K views, dude, you're famous !!!brGreat job Comment from : @Thunderstixx77 |
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Is aluminum stiff enough for this? I just spent hours cutting a ring on a 1-inch hardened steel I thought it was cold rolled steel until I started smoking the room up LOL Comment from : @ClownWhisper |
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well done Keith Comment from : @stevenacarter77 |
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Often just taking your jaws and changing them to another slot may true up without any further effort Comment from : @jolllyroger1 |
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Can you re-edit the video with some music from Megadeath please? Comment from : @shamu3838 |
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Anyone know which Keith Fenner video shows how he ground his lathe jaws? Comment from : @DonDegidio |
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in which video did keith do this process ? i think i've seen them all Comment from : @guubagaaba8391 |
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could you please explain what does "truing up" mean? Comment from : @rizwanulkarim1920 |
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WOW Comments are polarizing Keith I like your videos & recognize that what you have to work with is generally 'old school' I'm into old school myself Trying to teach myself a new trade in tool making & find your results educational! My Chinese Lathe / Mill Combo will have a better run out once my tool post grinder arrives - but will need an extension to do it My interest in your escapades is real Comment from : @BROCKWOOD64 |
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Thanks Keith, I really like your videos! I only have one question about this one in particular, since I worked for a short while in industrial metrology: at the end of the video, wouldn't it make more sense to measure the total, or only radial runnout, using a cylinder gauge? That there is just plain stock, who knows how cylindrical that is Comment from : @ms01rci |
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Interesting and impressive procedure couldn't the 004 run out just be a result of the tolerance of the round stock? Comment from : @andrewking2590 |
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thanks keith Comment from : @ScottandTera |
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Perhaps someone can enlighten me here If using a media wheel, wouldnt the diameter change as it grinds, making the slide measurements off? I guess the trick is to take very little off each pass to keep the change minimal? Comment from : @joegood164 |
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Can you tell me if the top hard jaws stand proud of the master jaws when new? Comment from : @howardtoob |
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Wow that was interesting, I have an old Atlas I'm going to fix right now Thank you :o) Comment from : @shortribslongbow5312 |
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