Название | : | 3. Bedding a rifle with MatchGrade bedding compound |
Продолжительность | : | 6.53 |
Дата публикации | : | |
Просмотров | : | 136 rb |
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Hi Nathan, I'm viewing these videos as part of a gunsmithing program, as well as using a few of your books and articles as study material So first and foremost, thank You Your attention to detail and obvious passion is refreshing, and your sense of humor makes it possible to study for much longer periods of time than others material does brbrQuestion: I may have missed it, the cardboard that is in the slot for the recoil lug, I saw it in there, but didn't see it removed I would think it needs to come out at some point So what is the cardboard for, and if it is removed, what stage or step in the process is it removed? Comment from : Ewe People |
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This is a rather more "involved" bedding job compared to other examples on youtubeand I can see how this would come out SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER! Nice work I thank you very much for sharing it with us Comment from : GetMeThere1 |
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I can't wait to try this out myself Comment from : Cooper Bybee |
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how do you clean up under the tire tubes?? Comment from : zoidelux |
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This was the best explaination of bedding I have seen Outstanding Other Youtube's need to listen to your presentation skills Comment from : Robert Mowery |
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Nathan, did you just push the straws down that were placed into the lug holes with the tape covered headless bolts? Comment from : Dan Mayland |
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Glassing the bed (and floating the barrel and setting trigger pull at 2 lbs) on the B&C fibreglass stock my Rem 700 30-06 BDL took my groups from 75 MOA (still very respectable for an out of the box rifle) to 1 hole with my handloads If you want to turn your rifle into a real tackdriver, glassing the bed of your stock is one the least expensive and most effective way to do it along with floating the barrel Comment from : Steve Hammond |
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Hi, because the power of the screws can be too much and can flex the stock/action depending on the skills or tools available to the end user Also, if fitting screws after putting the action into the mortice, some end users may accidentally allow compound into the action threads With bungees, a headless screw can be used to prevent problems Also, the bungee will yield before the stock or action flexes This is very important for end users We went to great lengths testing these factors Comment from : Nathan Foster |
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I was wondering why you do not use 'bedding screws' as these would give consistent pressure vs the tire tubes Comment from : rapidfireXring |
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@cptexas1 Quick heat to remove any air bubbles the user has mixed into the mortice The compound is already runny If its made runnier, the metal particles will fail to remain suspended and separate within the resin, I experimented with this during R&D, would rather the user had good metal to metal contact The release agent we use is Kiwi instant wax shine, leaves an exceptional finish Other pics can be found at the site Hope that helps Cheers Comment from : Nathan Foster |
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a tip if i may: push your action back with some force to make sure the recoil lug compresses the compound and fills in the voids the compound in front of the lug will flow in to the lug as it dries and isnt as important as the rear of the lug Comment from : Jacob smith |
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@LUVMAGNUMGUNS2 Hi, heck, sorry for the late reply, been away guiding Depending on the rifle, bedding can make a huge difference Some rifles will go from 3MOA to 75MOA In the case of the Sendero, the goal was to prevent it rubbing on the ali block which later on, can open up groups from its factory 75MOA to over 1MOA (which is of course quite fine for all but extreme long range) The Sendero is currently averaging 430" Comment from : Nathan Foster |
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